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Joined 11 months ago
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Cake day: July 25th, 2023

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  • I would be very, very suspicious of claims about this. Grading patterns and fitting them to a specific person is much harder than simply plugging numbers in to a program. You’re likely going to need to do significant fitting of the pattern. (Also, without getting too deep into the process, you’re going to need to either have a very wide format printer, or a pen plotter, in order to use the patterns. Which certainly isn’t the end of the world, but most people don’t have a 72" wide roll-to-roll printer at home.)

    I’m saying this as someone that did their undergrad work in fashion design, and used to be pretty decent at pattern making before I switched industries.

    I’ve used multiple flat patterning techniques from a range of authors; you can get some really weird results when you plug your own measurements in, versus the ‘ideal’ measurements. For instance, I always need to significantly pitch the back of jeans patterns for myself (like, 2-3" or more); some ways of creating a jeans sloper end up being so incorrect on me that they don’t work at all.






  • There are only two companies that I can track down through energy.gov that are fully certified and able to do energy audits in my general area. I expect that I’m going to pay a lot to figure out just how leaky my house it… :'( Still, I really want to reduce my carbon footprint, and heating with propane is expensive when your house is leaky, even when you live in a nominally warm part of the country. A wood burning stove is enough most of the time, but still, carbon footprint.

    I think that the issue with the electrical panel is that it’s full, and there’s not a great place to put the breaker. It should have sufficient amperage. There was a nasty hot tub that used to be on the porch when we moved in that’s gone; that breaker is probably sufficient for a heat pump and air handler, but the wiring would need to be re-routed.

    Even with FLIR, it’s really hard to see the places that need to be sealed. I’ve rented one–back when my local Home Depot had one to rent–and there are just a ton of small nooks and crannies that it’s hard to get a read on. My guess is that it’s best to do that when there’s a really sharp temperature differential, like a cold winter day. I’m pretty sure I’m going to have to tear open the walls on the upper story to fill the voids with 2" foam board, and seal with spray foam; I looked into spray foam, and without sheathing on the upper story, it would make replacing the siding an enormous pain in the ass. Plus, it would not allow air circulation behind the clapboards, which leads to premature failure.

    My state is deep red, so I’d be shocked if there was much in the way of specialty certifications beyond what’s necessary at the federal level. They’ve been talking about cash rebates on retrofits for a number of years now, but that still doesn’t seem to have actually happened yet.


  • They said that I needed to do electrical before they came in for the installation–depending on where I wanted the exterior unit–and I noted that I needed to have an energy audit and get the insulation fixed before I had a heat pump installed. That def. was not on their estimate. (For reference, it’s a 1500 ft^2 living space log cabin, and was built before there were picky little things in my county like, “residential building codes”. So it’s drafty.)

    I’m trying to schedule a 2nd contractor right now. I know that I need to get multiple estimates before I open my wallet. The estimate I have doesn’t give the exact model number for any of the heat pumps they’re referencing, or the air handler, so I can’t look up the BTU rating to see if it’s in-line with very, very rough estimates of my heating needs. It lists the tonnage and the SEER/EER/HSPF ratings, but nothing past that.

    The person that came out initially said that he though I’d be looking at an installation of around $9000 total, ignoring any tax credits or state rebates. His good/better/best low estimate, with credits and rebates, was a little over $13k, or about 145% of his ballpark number. The high end was 215% of his ballpark with rebates, etc., and 267% without.


  • My biggest problem with heat pumps right now is that the one contractor that will give me an estimate is about 3x above the national average for a new system installation, and I can’t get anyone else to come out and talk to me in the first place. WTF, guys? (Seriously, if the components for a 3 ton system from Mitsubishi Trane is retailing at about $9k, there’s no fucking reason to price installation of a new system at $28k.)